Historically, the term colonialism ranks pretty close to imperialism as a pejorative. In the realm of travel and tourism, however, colonial architecture is invariably a much desired sightseeing attraction, often celebrated in UNESCO World Heritage sites (e.g., cities like San Miguel de Allende, a popular destination on these pages). In the world of hospitality in particular, the name Raffles symbolizes the epitome of combining classic colonial architecture with refined elegance and comfort. And nowhere is this marriage more evident than at Raffles Hotel Le Royal, in Phnom Penh, Cambodia.
The storied history of Raffles begins as far back as 140 years ago, with the establishment in 1887 of the company’s first hotel, in Singapore, which was indeed a British colony at the time. Raffles virtually immediately became the place to stay for the rich and famous, from immortal authors (Rudyard Kipling, Somerset Maugham) to movie stars (Ava Gardner, Elizabeth Taylor).
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Fast forward 40 years, when Raffles launched its expansion into neighboring Cambodia, then a French colony. The hotel in the capital city of Phnom Penh was inaugurated under the patronage of the country’s king – hence the appellation that includes the reference to the monarchy. To this day, Raffles is the only hotel in Cambodia that is permitted to use the term “royal” in its name, with its doormen exclusively wearing the uniforms of regal guards.
Three years later, Raffles in Cambodia opened a sister property in Siem Reap, the location of Angkor Wat, which consistently ranks among the top tourist destinations in Asia. Like its counterpart in the capital, Raffles Grand Hotel d’Angkor attracted the crème de la crème of high society, from political leaders such as Charles de Gaulle to celebrities such as Charlie Chaplin and Jackie Kennedy.
The two properties closed during the turbulent times of Cambodia’s civil war and the Khmer Rouge regime, reopening in 1997. In 2016, Raffles Hotels & Resorts officially became part of Accor, the sixth-largest hospitality company in the world. Raffles was acquired as part of Accor’s overall strategy to increase the proportion of luxury properties across its 45 brands, spanning all budget levels.
A Touch of Class
One of the first things we noticed as we drove up the circular driveway to the hotel’s porticoed entrance was a polished white elongated golf cart emblazoned with the Raffles logo. This canopied limousine version of the local mini-taxi (known throughout South Asia as a tuk tuk) is one of the perks of staying at Le Royal: guests may book its use free of charge to be shuttled to nearby tourist attractions, such as the magnificent Royal Palace and Silver Pagoda.
Upon entering the hotel, guests are welcomed in the traditional Raffles way, with a refreshing drink and perfumed washcloth. The quick and efficient registration is made all the more pleasant by affable, smiling front-desk personnel.
The ground floor is classic Raffles colonial: wide, gleaming corridors that connect in a rectangle around a sprawling central pool complex, with separate pools for adults and children. Vacationers are sure to enjoy leisure time relaxing poolside on one of the surrounding chaise longues, shaded by broad umbrellas from the tropical sun.
Deluxe Accommodations
Inside the hotel’s 175 guest units – including six suites named after world-famous personalities who had stayed in them – are every amenity that one expects in a five-star establishment: comfortable king-sized beds, user-friendly climate control (A/C plus ceiling fans), large flat screen television with multi-channel and multi-lingual programming, laptop-sized electronic safe for valuables, and refreshment corner with complimentary mineral water, mini-refrigerator, espresso machine and electric kettle. Free WiFi is available in all guest rooms and public spaces.
The white and gray marble bathrooms are fastidiously clean, with dual sinks for added convenience. The proprietary Raffles toiletries are especially pampering, and every conceivable amenity is provided (including, for example, dental and shaving kits).
As befits the property’s colonial heritage, there is an old-fashioned claw-footed bathtub, adding to the rarified atmosphere. It is a bit easier, nonetheless, to use the spacious shower stall, equipped with dual showerheads, and afterward, to dry off with one of the thirsty bath towels and then don one of the monogrammed Raffles robes. Amazingly, this is the first – and only – hotel I have ever stayed in where the guest unit comes with two pairs of robes: one for the bathroom and another, silkier one for lounging in the room.
Dining, Drinking, and Pampering: In the Tradition of the Singapore Sling
As any cocktail aficionado would acknowledge, Raffles is world-famous not only for its hotels but also for its bars. The iconic Singapore Sling was invented more than a century ago at the Long Bar in the original Raffles Hotel, and has since become a tradition in divergent incarnations in all subsequent Raffles properties.
The inviting Elephant Bar at Le Royal stocks over 200 gins and has created a unique tasting experience featuring, inter alia, the proprietary Sipsmith Raffles 1915 Gin and Elephant Bar Gin. Check out both the award-winning Kaf-Kaf Gin & Tonic, as well as the one-and-only Femme Fatale, concocted especially for Jacqueline Kennedy.
Interestingly – and admirably responsibly – the Elephant Bar serves its drinks using recyclable tapioca straws. This is emblematic of the Raffles chain’s commitment to sustainability, evident also at the daily breakfast, where the traditional overwhelming buffet has been scaled back to a more à la carte format – the same attention to detail and culinary excellence, without the waste associated with an endless array of hot and cold dishes.
The hotel’s premier dining option is Restaurant Le Royal, a fine dining establishment specializing in traditional Khmer cuisine with a nod to modern Cambodian influences. The ambiance is elegance par excellence, with a hand-painted ceiling and ornate chandeliers.
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More casual dining takes place in Le Phnom 1929 and at the Poolside Terrace, but if there is any culinary experience Raffles is known for apart from its libations, it is the chain’s renowned afternoon high tea. In fact, it would be hard to fit a sumptuous dinner at Restaurant Le Royal into your schedule on the same day as partaking of the time-honored afternoon tea; if you’re still hungry before bedtime after skipping dinner, a good bet is to head for a nightcap at The Elephant Bar, where addictive complimentary snacks (also available during happy hour) accompany your choice of pre-slumber cocktail.
For guests desiring a gastronomic adventure not on the premises, the hotel’s concierge will be happy to arrange something in the city, from one of the capital’s fabled Mekong River sunset cruises to an unforgettable feast at nearby Labaab Restaurant, and/or a different kind of gin-tasting experience at the distillery that produces The Elephant Bar’s house gins, Seekers Spirits.
Finally, the Raffles Spa, offering Khmer and international massage treatments, is the ideal place to relax and unwind after a long day of touring or conducting business. In addition, the adjacent wellness area comes complete with saunas, whirlpool baths, and a modern fitness room, equipped with state-of-the-art cardio machines, weights, and a stretching area.
Room rates at Raffles Hotel Le Royal begin at approximately USD 221 per night, and vary seasonally. The price for suites can extend into four figures. Members of the All Accor loyalty program (free to join) benefit from discounted rates and other perks.
Check rates for Raffles Hotel Le Royal Phnom Penh online at Expedia, Booking.com, Agoda.com, or Hotels.com.
Text and photos by Buzzy Gordon, who was a guest of the hotel for purposes of review. Additional photos by Diana Shahar and courtesy of Raffles Hotel Le Royal. As always, the opinions expressed are his own.
