The mist was pea-soup thick, and the waves were crashing as I trod Chesterman Beach, searching for the outline of Wickaninnish Inn. Located on Vancouver Island’s thundering west coast, the Relais & Châteaux property is a stunning testament of love. Conceived of and cared for by Tofino-born-and-bred Charles McDiarmid, it pays homage to the region’s wild nature and embraces the creativity of its inhabitants.
I was back, after staying at the inn more than 20 years ago. The magnetic pull of its majestic location was, if anything, stronger now. Perhaps that was because the jackhammering life of Toronto was wearing me down. It was time to get grounded.
Other hotels on Vancouver Island embrace nature and wellness, but the Wickaninnish Inn is in a league of its own.
As the mist began to lift, I made out the inn’s circular dining room jutting out from a craggy promontory. With a final glance at the wet-suited surfers bobbing in the surf, I made my way to warmth.
The Rustic Elegance of Wickaninnish Inn
Wickaninnish Inn is known for providing “rustic elegance on nature’s edge.” Flanked by a rain forest on one side and the Pacific Ocean on the other, it offers a front row seat to nature’s greatest shows – pounding winter storms, migrating whales in spring, seals and sea otters diving for dinner year-round. It’s the kind of place you go when you want to be electrified or, in my case, soothed by the earth’s energy.
There are 75 rooms and suites located in two buildings. The Pointe Building has the inn’s main entrance, restaurant, and bar. Next door, the Beach Building has its own reception and offers 18 Deluxe rooms and 12 suites. It also houses a gym, café, gallery, and library.
Rooms and Suites with Stunning Views
My husband and I were in a Pointe West Deluxe room. Over the tub in the bathroom was a sliding door for soaks with a view. A gas fireplace in the corner added coziness. Curling up with a book on the sofa while the fire’s flames danced sounded like the perfect way to spend a rainy afternoon.
A cottage-y touch was the stormlight oil candle. A nice bit of atmospheric ambiance.
Wickaninnish Inn is Prepared
People come here year-round to immerse themselves in what can be wild and wicked weather. And the inn encourages these adventures. Two sets of bright orange foul-weather gear hung in the closet, and a rechargeable flashlight was fastened to the wall. Upon request, you can get a pair of Wellies to keep your feet dry during your adventures. Plus, umbrellas are by the entrance way and in the rooms.
I was drawn to the balcony after grabbing the binoculars thoughtfully placed on the mantlepiece.
To help with wildlife spotting, the mantle also housed books, including Whales of the West Coast by David A.E. Spalding, and National Geographic’s Field Guide to the Birds of North America.
Looking around, I noticed a Brita water filter and stainless steel water bottles for use on the property, plus a coffee maker, kettle, and selection of coffee, teas, and hot chocolate. A mini-fridge held a variety of alcoholic and non-alcoholic beverages.
WiFi was available, as was a digital in-room music library and digital newspapers and magazines. I pressed a button and up popped a flat-screen TV, hidden in the credenza.
Casual and Sophisticated Dining Choices
The Pointe Restaurant serves brunch from morning to mid-afternoon. Dinner in this gorgeous space was a highlight. There were two choices for omnivores: the three-course Table d’Hôte journey or the five-course Tasting Menu. Plus, there were vegan and vegetarian versions.
I chose the Table ‘d’Hôte and savored a crisp dressed endive salad, a silky sable fish main, and a decadent Hazelnut Paris-Brest dessert with caramelized chocolate, sea buckthorn, and candied carrot.
Our server explained that Chef Clayton Fontaine and his team were dedicated to seasonal, regional ingredients. That could include anything from Salt Spring Island mussels to chanterelles from the rainforest floor. Plus, you can order wine pairings with either dinner option.
Relaxing with a Beverage at Wickaninnish Inn
Nightcaps or afternoon pick-me-ups can be had at the On the Rocks Bar, located just as you enter the restaurant area. I loved the bar’s Carmanah black marble bar top.
“Touch it. Do you feel anything?”
Charles McDiarmid, who can often be found chatting with guests, had spied me ogling the stony slab.
Running my hands from edge to edge, I noticed a slight warmth in the middle.
“We installed lights below, which give it a slight heat. That way you’re not shocked with a cold jolt when you first touch the marble,” he explained.
Delightful Details and Decor
Little touches that you wouldn’t consciously notice are throughout the inn. Design details as well. The late carver Henry Nolla completed much of the adze work on beams, mantles, and more.
The pebbled effect gives the décor a personal, handcrafted look. Cutlery in the restaurant was textured with the same feel.
“It’s called the Tofino Line,” and we are the only commercial operation to have it on the coast,” explained McDiarmid.
The next morning, I headed to Driftwood Café in the Beach House for a latte and breakfast sandwich. The casual eatery has a counter made of a driftwood trunk of Vancouver Island maple.
Everywhere I looked in the two buildings, I saw elements of nature. Windows faced the raging (or calm) sea, recycled old-growth wood was repurposed into window frames, and on the way into the wine cellar, rocks poked up from the property’s foundation.
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Wellness Options at Wickaninnish Inn
Waiting for the rain to let up, I worked out in the gym. Even here, windows looked out over the beach. Treadmills, elliptical machines, and free weights kept me busy until the sun came out.
Ancient Cedar Spa was full during my stay. It only has four treatment rooms, so it’s best to book ahead when you reserve your room. The space looked lovely, though. Set in a little cabin, the views are of water and rainforest. Massages, facials, and hydrotherapy sessions are some of the items on the menu. In addition, there’s a steam cave that can accommodate up to five people. Yoga is also available in class format or private sessions.
Making a Dream a Reality
From my earlier conversation with McDiarmid, I learned that his father moved to the area in the 1950s. Opening a boutique inn surrounded by this rugged beauty had been a family dream for decades. After studying hotel administration at Cornell University, McDiarmid worked with Four Seasons Hotels and Resorts for 13 years. In 1995, he began building the inn with an eye to sustainability. (Eco-friendly aspects are everywhere, such as room keycards made of red cedar.) In 1996, the Wickaninnish Inn opened, and a year later, it became a member of the prestigious Relais & Châteaux family.
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Activities Near Wickaninnish Inn
Surfing is the prime activity on Chesterman Beach. You can arrange for lessons nearby at one of the surf schools or rental shops.
In Pacific Rim National Park Reserve, you can see old-growth forest with trees that are up to 800 years old. Plus, there are many trails and coastal walking paths to choose from.
Whale watching and wildlife tours are also a hit in the area. Gray whales, humpback whales, sea otters, Harbour seals, and black bears are a few of the creatures you can see from guided boat tours that depart from Tofino harbor.
Artists of the Area
Close to the inn is the Carving Shed. George Yearsley was in residence during our stay. I peeked in and watched him carve delicate wooden feathers. A huge sports fan, he regaled me with his thoughts on the Toronto Blue Jays and his beloved Montreal Canadiens.
For art enthusiasts, the town of Tofino offers the Roy Henry Vickers Gallery and the Mark Hobson Gallery. Vickers is of mixed First Nations and European heritage, and his art is a bold mixture of traditional indigenous and contemporary styles. Mark Hobson is a wildlife and landscape artist who focuses on the Canadian Pacific Coast. Plus, there’s the Tofino Gallery of Contemporary Art.
The town is also lined with souvenir shops, ice cream stands, and independent food vendors.
Rates at Wickaninnish Inn
Rooms range from around $600 to $1,000 per night. Suites with full kitchens can go up to $2,000 per night. Rates vary according to day of the week and season. The inn is pet-friendly. You can have up to two dogs, and you must request a pet-friendly room when booking. Valet parking is complimentary.
Check rates for Wickaninnish Inn online at Agoda.com.
Hotel feature by Toronto-based travel writer Maureen Littlejohn. Photos © Maureen Littlejohn. Wickaninnish Inn arranged for her stay as she researched a larger piece. As always, her thoughts and opinions are her own.
