Rolling up to the Parador de Baiona in our group’s minivan, it looked like I was about to set foot in a sprawling, neo-Gothic palace. Also known as the Parador del Conde de Gondomar, the historic 122-room hotel sits where a medieval fortified town once stood and juts into the Bay of Baiona.
Made of huge blocks of locally quarried granite, the stately building was surrounded by a three-kilometer stone pathway, complete with towers and a few cannons. Stepping out of the vehicle, I took a deep breath of salty air and looked around. The blue-water views of the Rías Baixas estuarine inlets and the Atlantic Ocean were stunning.
Reading up before my trip to the city of Baiona on the southwestern edge of Galicia, Spain, I learned the hotel was situated on the Monterreal Peninsula. A fortified town bustled here between the 11th and 17th centuries. Its military role ended in 1859. In 1877, now a ruin, the site was purchased by the Marquis of the Pazo de la Merced. He transformed it into a palatial home. Declared a National Monument in 1950, it opened as a parador in 1966.
The Paradores Network Background
As a history buff, paradores are my go-to accommodation in Spain. They are state-run luxury hotels in converted castles, monasteries, and manor houses. Almost 100 years ago, the Spanish government created this network of accommodation establishments to help preserve the country’s historic and cultural heritage. Today, 98 Paradores in Spain (plus one in Portugal) foster the local economy. Plus, they are devoted to sustainability and environmental protection.
Parador de Santo Estevo is another favorite of mine.
I was fascinated by the Parador de Baiona’s story. Not only did it comprise the Marquis’ neo-Gothic dream home, but the stables had been converted into a wine cellar.
The preserved medieval walls conjured in my mind the years of Catholic monarchs. These included the Anglo-Spanish Wars, and the 1585 attack by England’s Sir Francis Drake. He was neatly repelled by the first Count of Gondomar. His reward? To be named the governor of Baiona. Plus, the Count’s legacy continues in the parador’s alternative name.
Accommodation at the Parador de Baiona
My room was a Superior Double with a sea view. Dark wood beams graced the ceiling and an upholstered chair and loveseat made a pleasant sitting area by the window. In addition, there was a desk, mini-fridge, flat screen TV, and free WiFi.
Variations on the rooms included a Standard Double with a courtyard view, a Junior Suite, and a Suite. In addition, there are two Accessible rooms.
Activities On-Site
I was there in May and strolled the lush, green gardens. Pink and white blooms popped from more than 300 camellia shrubs. It was too early for the outdoor pool to be open, but I noticed a tennis court in use.
Dining at the Parador de Baiona
The hotel’s Prince’s Tower Restaurant (Torre del Príncipe) featured traditional Galician cuisine. Fresh seafood was the star with tender Burela hake, sea bass, scallops, and monkfish on offer. They also had pulpo a feira (octopus fair style), which was boiled, chopped, sprinkled with coarse salt, sweet and spicy paprika (pemento and pemento picante), and drizzled with olive oil. Delicious and not rubbery at all.
A less formal option I noticed was the lounge-like Enxebre A Pinta with comfy chairs and traditional Galician fare.
A Sumptuous Breakfast
Breakfast is one of my favorite meals. Parador de Baiona did not disappoint. A buffet spread included fresh-squeezed orange juice, pastries, and cakes such as Bica with cream and eggs, or Tarta de Santiago with ground almonds and lemon zest. Other tables were laden with yogurt, cheeses such as Tetilla, and San Simón da Costa. Plus, there was cured meats (including heavenly Galician ham), and fruit.
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From your table, you could order hot egg dishes and churros. Topped off with a few cups of rich, dark coffee, I was good to go until at least lunchtime. Pro-tip: Breakfast and half-board options are available when you book. These can be less expensive than the regular prices.
What to do Nearby the Parador de Baiona
For shoppers, the city’s historic quarter features cobbled streets and boutiques filled with maritime-inspired gifts. In the harbor, I spied a replica of La Pinta, the ship that brought news of Columbus’ discovery of America to the town in 1493. It’s a floating museum and is open Wednesday through Sunday. I was told to return in March for La Arribada. This annual festival celebrates Columbus’ return with dances, displays, and events.
A great day trip is to the Cíes Islands. Take a ferry to the Galicia Maritime-Terrestrial National Park for its hiking trails. Plus, you’ll see protected nesting sea birds such as the yellow-legged gull, and powdery beaches. It also features a popular campground.
Rates at the Parador de Baiona
Rates vary according to the season and how far in advance you book. A Standard Double starts at $350 per night, and a Superior Double with Seaview starts at $390 per night. A Junior Suite starts at $430 per night, and a Suite ranges between $520 and $600 per night. Outdoor parking is free or park indoors on-site for a fee. Electric charging stations are available.
Check rates online at Expedia, Booking.com, Agoda.com, or Hotels.com.
Hotel feature by Toronto-based travel writer Maureen Littlejohn. Photos © Maureen Littlejohn. The Tourism Office of Spain helped arrange for her stay as she researched a larger piece. As always, her thoughts and opinions are her own.
