Glamping Par Excellence at Four Seasons Tented Camp Golden Triangle, Thailand

I must confess that for the longest time, I had reservations about reviewing what has become a respected niche in tourist accommodations: glamping. I had trouble imagining a tent being as comfortable as traditional brick-and-mortar. But when I heard that Four Seasons was the brand behind a glamping resort in northern Thailand, all my doubts evaporated. I knew from experience – as do readers of my previous Four Seasons resort review – that his chain of hotels is a name to be trusted; the result is this debut review of a glamping experience, the first in my more than a dozen years as a contributor to this blog.

The Four Seasons Tented Camp Golden Triangle is situated in an area that is special for a number of reasons: for one, it is in the heart of an elephant sanctuary, where these noble pachyderms are protected from the abuses they have suffered for years in the service of the logging and tourism industries. Secondly, the resort is located in an incredibly exotic corner of the world – the area of Indochina where the borders of three countries come together along the banks of the storied Mekong River. This is also one of the continent’s most infamous regions, thanks to its role in the world’s opium and heroin cultivation and trade.  

Getting There

The adventure begins soon after landing in Chiang Rai, the northernmost city in Thailand with an international airport. A comfortable vehicle will transport you to the fork in the Mekong River where it branches off and forms the borders between Thailand, Laos and Myanmar (Burma); there you will board your private fantail boat and speed your way up the Ruak River to the resort’s private pier. 

After announcing your arrival by beating on a gong, you will proceed to enjoy a welcome drink and refreshing moist face cloth on a lovely terrace with an expansive view of the surrounding jungle – views of which you will never tire, whether enjoyed from the privacy of your own accommodations, the bar and dining area, the swimming pool, or even the spa in the bosom of the rainforest. 

Stays at Four Seasons Tented Camp Golden Triangle are invariably in the framework of two- to four-night all inclusive packages, comprising accommodations, meals, drinks and a variety of on- and off-site experiences. Spa treatments, as well as some special meals and excursions further afield, incur additional charges. 

Tree-surrounded Accommodations 

Guest accommodations are primarily in tents constructed on sturdy decks and suspended in the midst of pristine rainforest. There are three categories of tents – albeit all the same size, large enough to accommodate three people –  plus a spacious lodge that can accommodate families and larger parties (up to six).

The main entrance to the tent is through a large wooden door (with a padlock), while the inner doors – to the porch, shower and toilet – consist of layers of screens, plastic and canvas. There is a small porch at the entryway, while the huge back porch is more than adequately furnished – with a sofa, a table and chairs, and a pair of lounge chairs. 

Although I have walked through the doors of hundreds of hotel rooms, rarely have I had such a “wow” experience upon entering guest quarters as I did when I first glimpsed the inside of our luxury Mekong tent. From the four-poster canopy bed sharing the same center space as the huge earth-tone hued bathtub with brass fittings, to the dual sinks with faux elephant tusk faucets and the entire transparent far wall looking out over vast expanses of jungle, the impression and feeling are that this is one special place.

The shower and toilet are both in separate rooms, of course, but with a major difference. The toilet is in an enclosed cubicle, while the shower is largely outdoors, with a view unlike any other while soaping, lathering and rinsing. 

Naturally, the king-sized bed is extremely comfortable, and the canopy is actually mosquito netting – although we did not find it necessary, since there is an electronic device inside the tent to keep the pests away, in addition to tiny bottles of natural repellent spray which you can carry around with you to use when necessary. Like all the pampering toiletries – designed to meet every toiletry need imaginable – the spray is refilled daily by the housekeeping staff, who also execute a thorough turndown service every evening.

The closet comes equipped with a mini-wardrobe: bathrobes, slippers, and a camp “uniform” – a denim-like outfit similar to what is worn by mahouts (the elephant handlers), complete with locally woven tote bags. Wearing your camp suit every day solves the problem of using your clothes and creating laundry (although there is laundry service, if needed). Four Seasons Tented Camp Golden Triangle even provides crocs to wear on your feet while exploring the elephant sanctuary. 

Also well-stocked is the refreshment corner with espresso machine, electric kettle, coffees, teas and mini-refrigerator loaded with complimentary drinks. There are even cookies, snacks and garnishes for mixing your own cocktails. 

Complimentary high-speed WiFi reaches all the tents, as well as public areas, and there is a desk with plenty of charging options. One bit of electronics you will not find here is television; you are in the jungle to commune with nature and get away from it all, so you won’t miss the mass entertainment at all. Especially given all the activities at your disposal during your stay. 

Experiences and Adventures Galore 

There is much to see and do in and around Four Seasons Tented Camp Golden Triangle, and the staff make it very easy to accomplish any and all the activities you choose. You will receive a printed schedule tailored to your interests and preferences and be assigned a guide who will accompany you every step of the way.   

The on-site experiences may be either complimentary or entail a nominal supplemental fee, while excursions venturing further afield will involve an extra charge. A mix of both will ensure maximal enjoyment of your time at the camp.

An encounter with elephants is de rigueur – and virtually impossible to avoid. Every morning at breakfast, guests are not only joined by the constantly hungry gentle beasts but encouraged to feed them. To engage with them more fully, and learn more about the fascinating creatures, a guided walk (in groups of up to six) is recommended. You may also choose to get up close and personal when they take their morning bath. 

On two different occasions, we clambered back onto local flat-bottomed boats to experience a pair of distinct riverine adventures. One was a fascinating tour of the waterways and villages of the Golden Triangle, which include the impressive Hall of Opium museum, an ancient temple, a marketplace teeming with pungent foods, and a visit to an outdoor studio of women spinners and weavers – with bargains to be had when purchasing their intricate, colorful wares.

The second was an immersive dive into daily life along the river: fishing with the locals. You will actually catch fish, employing a variety of ingenious methods, and help a fisherman feed his family. You might even make a cross-border foray into neighboring Myanmar, without the formalities of passports and visas.

Less active – and more relaxing – would be spending some time in the infinity pool and adjacent whirlpool basin carved into the natural landscape of the tranquil jungle. The ultimate in serenity, however, would be a visit to the isolated spa nestled among the omnipresent trees; a wide variety of treatments is available on the menu, but it would be a shame not to try one of the two signature massages: a Thai hot compress massage using poultices of local herbs, and/or a Ruak bamboo massage, in which short, hollow bamboo sticks are rolled over the muscles. 

Dining as Complementary Experiences 

Four Seasons Tented Camp Golden Triangle is not exactly conveniently located near any local restaurants, but that is no hardship whatsoever. Quite the contrary: the resort’s resident chefs whip up gourmet meals three times a day, from à la carte breakfasts to filling lunches and extraordinary dinners. Moreover, all the menus feature choices of Western or Asian cuisine – with mix and match options for individual courses.

In addition to the excellent repasts served daily in the on-site Nong Yao restaurant, with its inviting fireplace for those occasional chilly evenings, there are individually curated dining experiences for special occasions, whether romantic interludes, a touch of privacy, or just for the sake of pure indulgence. One such experience I can highly recommend is the Kanthok dinner,  a traditional Lanna Kingdom feast catered personally for two at a beautifully festooned riverside pavilion.

Finally, a highlight of every evening is plopping down on a plush sofa and enjoying signature cocktails at Burma Bar, an outpost overlooking the river snaking its way through the jungle and towards the setting sun on the distant horizon. For a special treat, book a private “bucket sundowner” at the cozier terrace one level below – a magical hour that has to be experienced to be believed.

When (and where else) to go

Now that your appetite has been whetted, it is important to know what time of the year to visit. The best is undoubtedly the dry (and relatively cool) season, which runs from November through February – coinciding nicely with the bitterly cold winter months of the Northern Hemisphere. 

It is advisable to skip the other months of the year, since March to June can be stiflingly hot – with the added discomfort of poor air quality due to smoke from agricultural burning – while the rainy season (June through October) can interfere with many outdoor activities, and turn many of the countryside roads and trails into mud. 

Since most guests travel nearly halfway around the world to get to Four Seasons Tented Camp Golden Triangle, many choose to add a few days at the sister Four Seasons Resort Chiang Mai, the cultural capital of northern Thailand, just a few hours’ drive away. Those wanting the Thai trifecta of Four Seasons luxury may also add the island paradise of Four Seasons Resort Koh Samui, where one season of the popular HBO television series White Lotus was filmed. 

Rates for a two-day stay (the minimum allowed) at Four Seasons Tented Camp Golden Triangle start at an average of $2,655 per tent per night, in the least expensive season. Published prices on this booking page do not include taxes and a 10% service charge. Children must be at least 10 years of age to be guests, and they will be charged as adults. 

Text and photos by Buzzy Gordon, who was a guest of the resort for purposes of review. Additional photos by Diana Shahar.