By the Big River in Charlevoix: Fairmont Le Manoir Richelieu

If you watch those Gilded Age movies and TV shows with a wistful thought that the beauty of bygone days is history, it’s good to check into a place like Fairmont Le Manoir Richelieu in Charlevoix, Quebec, to see that elegance and formality haven’t completely disappeared. Here you can slow down, stroll by the river, and discuss deep family matters if you’d like, though you don’t need to wear a tuxedo or ball gown. 

This stately Charlevoix hotel is one of the longest-running lodging places in the region and certainly the most impressive with its stone construction, metal roofs, and turrets. Unfortunately, you won’t find much of that history on their website, just a mention that they opened 125 years ago, which would be the year 1900 as I write this. 

The public spaces here are the main draw, and they are reason enough to stay here on their own. It’s easy enough to feel like you’ve walked into a movie set with the gorgeous location by the St. Lawrence River, the expanse of lawns and paths with sitting areas, and the stunning stone main building gleaming in the morning sun. 

You’ll feel like a golden age movie star when sipping a martini in the lobby bar, and most of the drinking and dining spots have a superb view when the sun is up. At night, they feel like throwbacks in a good way, places to relive the days when we weren’t so distracted by glowing screens. 

Restaurants and Bars at Fairmont Charlevoix

The main restaurant here serves a routine breakfast buffet, with the smallest selection we found at the three hotels we stayed at in Quebec on this trip, far inferior to the one included at Club Med Charlevoix and less interesting than the farm-to-table one at Le Germain Charlevoix. The gluten-free selection for the two in our party who needed it was especially sad. 

Thankfully, lunch and dinner offer tastier and more interesting options, though the dinner menu at Le Saint Laurent can be limited in scope: you’ll have five or six items to choose from for a main dish, and one may be out by the time you order. It’s more about the view than what’s on your plate in the daytime, either from inside through the glass or outside on a patio. If you want to go really elegant, come for afternoon tea. 

One alternative to breakfast is the grab-and-go pastry place that serves coffee. You can get a good croissant or breakfast sandwich there rather than spending a lot on the so-so buffet option. Naturally, there are plenty of dining options nearby if you have a car or are willing to take a cab. We had a great dinner on the water at Auberge La Marmite Cafe and Bistro, a family-owned inn and restaurant where the owner is also a sommelier. 

Pools, the Spa, and Activities

After the view and grounds, the spa complex is the main draw here, especially in the short summer season when everyone wants to be outside enjoying the pools. There are two pools, one in-ground hot tub, several above-ground hot tubs, and a sauna outside. Then inside is another pool long enough for laps that’s open all year as well as another whirlpool. 

There are walking trails along the river to enjoy on the property grounds, and guests are enjoying those strolls all day to take in the view. At night, there are fire pits set up on the grounds and live music. There’s a casino across from the hotel and a full golf course adjoining. 

If you want to get the heartbeat up with some adventure activities, how about ziplining from the roof of your hotel? After you get all suited up and buckled in, you jump off at one of the highest points and whizz down a cable to a platform in the forest. Some in my group kept going because there’s a full via ferrata course on the side of cliffs where you are climbing and navigating footholds. 

There are plenty of other outdoor activity options a short drive away. We took a great whale watching trip where we saw minke whales up close and beluga whales in the distance, plus a bunch of playful seals and nice scenery. There are spots where you can go mountain biking, ride ATVs, or go kayaking. The concierge can set any of this up from the lobby. 

Rooms at the Fairmont Le Manoir Richelieu

This legendary property has hosted generations of Canadian and foreign guests, which in some ways is its greatest liability. Fairmont Le Manoir Richelieu is so popular that it’s hard for management to justify shutting it down for months for renovations or closing off sections of it to redo the rooms. So instead, it’s like an elegant elderly woman getting a Botox shot here, a little lift there, efforts that don’t really disguise the march of time. 

The good news is, none of that matters if you’re facing the river because the glorious view will make you think you are probably spending way too much time up here instead of down there. Otherwise, you’ll probably not spend much time in your room. The standards are barely more than 200 square feet and can only fit a queen bed. The Deluxe View Jacuzzi offerings are a different story, with a whirlpool by the window for taking in the view while you soak

If you’ve been in another Fairmont in the USA or Canada, you probably know what to expect and you’re fine with it: traditional furniture, nothing too surprising, and amenities that will make a steady stream of short-term travelers happy. You’ll get a Nespresso coffee maker, a tea kettle, robes, an electronic safe, and a mini fridge. The TV is cable only. 

While the vibe here is robber baron riches, the reality is more mainstream, with plenty of tour buses pulling up to unload large groups. As a result, rates are reasonable for a place that gives such a dashing first impression: starting a shade under US$300 for a queen bed standard in summer and starting around $500 for a suite. That’s including taxes and a US$26 “resort experience fee,” which explains why everyone is trying to get their money’s worth at the pool and spa complex.

Check their offers page for package deals that include golf, spa treatments, or other activities. 

Check rates online at Expedia, Booking.com, Agoda.com, or Hotels.com.

See more on the official website here. 

Review and photos by Tim Leffel who was hosted at the Fairmont Le Manoir Richelieu while on a press tour with Tourisme Charlevoix to explore the whole region. As always, all opinions are his own.