Stepping into Casa Sinning año 1637, a boutique hotel in Mompox, Colombia, is like stepping into a Gabriel García Márquez novel. This colonial hacienda, with its six traditional rooms, shaded terrace, generous rockers, and plunge pool surrounded by vegetation, feels wonderfully removed from the modern world. Off the outdoor lobby, a dining room-library filled with books and curious objects adds another layer of atmosphere, making the house feel as if it has been lived in, loved and quietly preserved for generations.
Magdalena River at Sunset – Santa Cruz de Mompox, Colombia – Photo Credit M. Ibbott
Casa Sinning is an oasis in a town known for its whitewashed homes and colourful churches. There are six in all, along with a striking white cemetery and its small chapel, all contributing to the town’s hushed, almost suspended quality. Santa Cruz de Mompox (or Mompos) has a sense of place that is immediate and enduring. It is the kind of town where history does not sit behind glass in a museum; it unfolds, in the streets, in the heat, in the mighty Magdalena River, in the breathtaking sunsets and the slow rhythm of life in la costa.
That slow rhythm is part of what makes Mompox feel so connected to Gabriel García Márquez and to the spirit of magical realism. The Magdalena River adds to the feeling, moving past the town with a calm, almost watchful presence. Mompox does not simply look historic; it feels imagined. This is after all, a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
City Hall – Santa Cruz de Mompox, Colombia Photo Credit M. Ibbott
Part of Casa Sinning’s appeal lies in its compact scale and its inner courtyard. The plunge pool is a welcome luxury in a place that is intensely hot, and it becomes even more appreciated after a day of walking through town. The courtyard itself is peaceful, a good place to pause with a cold fruit juice and take a break from the heat.
The property has only a handful of rooms, but the variation in size gives it a pleasing sense of character rather than repetition. They offer a combination of double or twin rooms, family rooms with king and twin beds, a deluxe king room and a double room with a garden view.
Bedroom – Casa Sinning año 1637 – Photo Credit: M. Ibbott
Each room has excellent air conditioning and ceiling fans, both essential to Mompox’s humid climate. The solid walls help keep out the noise, which makes sleep easy and the hotel feel clam even when the town is active outside.
My room had traditional furniture, a beautiful antique wardrobe, a small desk and mirror, and a bench with a TV mounted on the wall. I chose to sleep on the single bed rather than the larger one, simply because the mattress was softer and more comfortable.
Library/Dining Room – Casa Sinning año 1637 – Photo Credit: M. Ibbott
WIFI is readily available, but there is little temptation to stay indoors for long. Just a block away is La Albarrada, the waterfront pedestrian promenade where the Magdalena River slowly meanders toward the mangroves and wetlands.
The bathroom is spacious and modern with cool water to refresh the soul. A few toiletries and large towels were available should you decided to take a dip in the pool.
Large Bathroom – Casa Sinning año 1637 – Photo Credit: M. Ibbott
Breakfast is included and cooked to order. We had traditional eggs with tomatoes and onions, fresh fruit, and coffee, a simple but satisfying start to the day. The woman who prepared the meal was also the caretaker, which gave the stay a personal, house-hotel feeling rather than that of a conventional property.
Plunge Pool and Terrace – Casa Sinning año 1637 – Photo Credit: M. Ibbott
The wrought-iron gates remain closed through the day and evening, and guests are let in by ringing a bell and the caretaker comes over and inserts a large antique key to let us in – just like in a novel by GGM. In addition, the large wooden doors are locked at night. Safety was assured with 24 hour security, but in this colonial town we rested without concern.
We arrived a few days after Holy Week, which is the most important time of year in Mompox besides Jazz Festival season in September, and we had the hotel almost entirely to ourselves. The proprietor of Casa Sinning año 1637, Dona Betty Sinning, was gracious in welcoming us to her family home-turned- boutique hotel, and that warmth lingered throughout our stay.
Open Air Lobby – Casa Sinning año 1637 – Photo Credit: M. Ibbott
Casa Sinning año 1637 does not try and impress with amenities. Its charm lies in its setting, its atmosphere, and its ability to make you feel as though you have been invited into a living piece of Mompox history.
Although there is a full kitchen, we did not dine in the hotel but tried various restaurants and cafes in the city. You will want to stroll to La Albarrada (Riverwalk) to find a large rocking chair and a restaurant with regional specialties. I have a few suggestions:
- Restaurante Immaculada – Specializing in Caribbean food, we dined on the Albarrada with the sound of cicadas and a sound track of jazz and Caribbean music.
- Cafe 1700 – relaxed simple menu with exceptional sandwiches and fruit juices.
- Ambrosia – Extraordinary traditional Colombian dining in a beautiful colonial mansion. We also saw a traditional cumbia from a dance troupe.
- Hotel Archangelus – just steps from Casa Sinning – we enjoyed a traditional Caribbean coconut rice and sweets. Have a look around – it’s lovely.
La Albarrada (Riverwalk) in Mompox Credit M. Ibbott
Disclosure: I was a guest of Casa Sinning año 1637 as part of a press trip and conference in Colombia. My thanks to the host Vivir Mompox and ProColombia for the opportunity to visit this magical town.
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Check rates for Casa Sinning año 1637 online at Booking.com or Agoda.com.
What a gem tucked away in Mompox! It truly looks like an oasis removed from the major tourist areas of the country. It seems to invite you to slow down and just be.